lecalabashcookeryschool

I was in London on Sunday 26^th February as I was visiting the UK to buy all my Asian and Indian ingredients for the 2012 season, as there is nowhere in Europe like the UK to buy these spices and herbs.

I bought the Sunday Times and it had an article by Kate Mansey ‘Michelin Star Wars.’

I found it rather amusing, yet, I felt it was as always out of touch and without any depth into what is really important in the Restaurant Industry, worldwide.

I however found Marcus Wareing’s statement, ‘If you can’t cope-get out of the kitchen’ extremely annoying as it was made in the context of Michelin Stars.

Kate Mansey’s opinion that Michelin Stars are the highest accolade in cooking, is so shallow and without substance, as in my humble opinion, the highest accolade any for any chef who runs his own business, is a happy and returning customer.

So many of my clients have asked me what is the best meal you have ever experienced, and I know they are expecting my answer to be a meal in a Michelin Starred property.

No, it was in fact a small family run restaurant in a little village called Villa St Maria where I was served a Potato Gnocchi  with a Ragù alla Bolognese and Tiramisu with Banana Ice Cream, it was superb, and I love would love to challenge Marcus Wareing to duplicate the meal, as my last two meals in his restaurants left much to be desired and I will definitely not be a returning customer.

I find it extremely sad that chefs are haunted by Michelin Reviewers and even more alarming lose track of why they have a restaurant, to make a living.

Right here in ruralFrancewe had a 1 Michelin Star Restaurant close last month, after losing a small fortune by a young chef.

I am not prepared to call him talented, as I only went there once and would not return. He was a young family man who needed to run a profitable business to support his family. The area had more than enough of a customer base, but he was overpriced and out of touch.

As is the case with so many Michelin Star chefs, it is a fact that they can not readapt to the economical changes and downgrade. In essence, they are not all the superstars they are made out to be.

I without any reservations state that the best meals I have experienced in my life, have never been in an award winning restaurant, but rather in the Yemanite Quarter just outside Jerusalem, Villa St Maria, in Italy, with a wine maker friend at his home in Cape Town, a little Indian Restaurant outside Durban and without any doubt, my Zulu Nanny’s Wild Spinach, Tomato and Chilli Stew with Pap which will always be the most memorable meal I have had in this life.

Why in heavens name have we not come up with a real food guide that caters for the general public. I would be surprised if more than 2% of the worlds population can afford to eat in a Michelin Starred Restaurant, it is outdated and in my opinion not what true chefing is all about.

As Raymond Blanc stated in the article, ‘Food can be Excellent without a Star.

I am not a big AA Gill fan, but for once I agree with his statement in the article;

‘The only thing that keeps them going is that chefs cleave to them as if they were the industry’s Oscars,’ he said ‘ What other bit of your life would you entrust to a tyre company? Apart from your tyres.

‘There’s a bigger problem with guides. It makes the experience worse because chefs work not for you but for some invisible bloke who will give them another star’

I was in London on Sunday 26^th February as I was visiting the UK to buy all my Asian and Indian ingredients for the 2012 season, as there is nowhere in Europe like the UK to buy these spices and herbs.

I bought the Sunday Times and it had an article by Kate Mansey ‘Michelin Star Wars.’

I found it rather amusing, yet, I felt it was as always out of touch and without any depth into what is really important in the Restaurant Industry, worldwide.

I however found Marcus Wareing’s statement, ‘If you can’t cope-get out of the kitchen’ extremely annoying as it was made in the context of Michelin Stars.

Kate Mansey’s opinion that Michelin Stars are the highest accolade in cooking, is so shallow and without substance, as in my humble opinion, the highest accolade any for any chef who runs his own business, is a happy and returning customer.

So many of my clients have asked me what is the best meal you have ever experienced, and I know they are expecting my answer to be a meal in a Michelin Starred property.

No, it was in fact a small family run restaurant in a little village called Villa St Maria where I was served a Potato Gnocchi  with a Ragù alla Bolognese and Tiramisu with Banana Ice Cream, it was superb, and I love would love to challenge Marcus Wareing to duplicate the meal, as my last two meals in his restaurants left much to be desired and I will definitely not be a returning customer.

I find it extremely sad that chefs are haunted by Michelin Reviewers and even more alarming lose track of why they have a restaurant, to make a living.

Right here in ruralFrancewe had a 1 Michelin Star Restaurant close last month, after losing a small fortune by a young chef.

I am not prepared to call him talented, as I only went there once and would not return. He was a young family man who needed to run a profitable business to support his family. The area had more than enough of a customer base, but he was overpriced and out of touch.

As is the case with so many Michelin Star chefs, it is a fact that they can not readapt to the economical changes and downgrade. In essence, they are not all the superstars they are made out to be.

I without any reservations state that the best meals I have experienced in my life, have never been in an award winning restaurant, but rather in the Yemanite Quarter just outside Jerusalem, Villa St Maria, in Italy, with a wine maker friend at his home in Cape Town, a little Indian Restaurant outside Durban and without any doubt, my Zulu Nanny’s Wild Spinach, Tomato and Chilli Stew with Pap which will always be the most memorable meal I have had in this life.

Why in heavens name have we not come up with a real food guide that caters for the general public. I would be surprised if more than 2% of the worlds population can afford to eat in a Michelin Starred Restaurant, it is outdated and in my opinion not what true chefing is all about.

As Raymond Blanc stated in the article, ‘Food can be Excellent without a Star.

I am not a big AA Gill fan, but for once I agree with his statement in the article;

‘The only thing that keeps them going is that chefs cleave to them as if they were the industry’s Oscars,’ he said ‘ What other bit of your life would you entrust to a tyre company? Apart from your tyres.

‘There’s a bigger problem with guides. It makes the experience worse because chefs work not for you but for some invisible bloke who will give them another star’

Here at le Calabash we have just had a group of students from Memphis Tennessee, LÉcole Culinaire for 5 days at ‘le Calabash’

It has left both Alison and I with many a good memory and a lot to reflect upon, not to mention that we have make some new friends.

What has amazed us both is the fact that these student are covering an amazing curriculum, with all areas in the kitchen covered, something many a Culinary School miss do not do today.

The students enthusiasm was so infectious as was thier hunger to absort anything that was related to the food industry.

I have forgotten how great it is to be around enthusiastic and culinary hungry young aspiring chefs.

What’s even more evident is the fact that we now live in such a small world and culinary information is on hand at the click of a button, something they all seemed to do and study.

Contrary to Continental European’s general beliefs, the USA is a serious contender when it comes to great food. There is such an unwarranted perception that Americans do not really eat well.

I can honestly say that some on the most inspiring dishes I have had have been in the Cities of  New York and Chicago and that the service I experienced there was second to none.

The two instructors who accompanied the students were extremely well informed and had an extensive broad knowledge of international cuisine, something their European colleagues lack and their enthusiasm to pass this on to the students was blatantly evident at all times.

Yes, like anywhere in the world, you had the odd ‘Dropout’ but in general 98% of these kids, some not really kids, have nothing but a bright and wonderful career ahead of them as chefs.

Both Alison and I are now so keen to go see the L’École Culinaire for ourselves, but more importantly, go and eat in the establishments these students will be cooking in.

see; www.lecoleculinaire.com

Happy New Year from ‘le Calabash’ and France

We wish all our Friends and Client a Happy and Prosperous 2012

French New Year

French New Year or Jour des Étrennes or Day of  New Year’s Presents.

In France dinner parties are thrown for the entire family. People exchange presents and greeting cards. People began sending fake gifts on April first which originally culminated in the New Year feast of course these gifts were only as a joke on those who previously had received their étrennes or New Year’s gifts, on that day.

Poisson d’avril or April fish is the name the French apply to one who is fooled or mocked on April first. Confectioners’ windows display chocolate fish on this day and many friends anonymously send each other humorous postcards imprinted with pictures of fish.

The French adopted the reformed calendar in 1582 which changed the beginning of the New Year from March 25 to January first.

New Year rice – Sun Nin Farn

500 grams long grain rice
2 eggs
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons soy sauce
100 grams prawns or shrimps
100 grams ham
1/2 bunch spring onions

1. Cook the rice and leave to cool for an hour.

2. Beat the egg and make an omelette. When cooled cut into pieces.

3. Cut the prawns and ham into small pieces.

4. Wash, peel and slice onions.

5. Heat the oil, add cooked rice and stir fry for a few minutes.

   Add salt, soy sauce and then prawns, ham and onions.

6. Turn into a warmed serving plate, sprinkle shredded egg on top.

7. Spoon into individual bowls and eat with chopsticks.

‘

Mama Africa’

A  Blended Spice Recipe Handed Down to Sidney

By his Zulu Nanny ‘Edith’

This spice rub is ideal when moistened with lemon juice, lime juice, olive oil or a little white wine, massage into butter flied tiger prawn, spatchcock chicken, chicken wings, monkfish, tuna, scallops before grilling or barbecuing.

I love it with freshly pan braised large leaf spinach with lots of butter, as my nanny used to make it with ‘Maroggo’  a wild spinach found in Southern Africa which she used to go out and pick in the ‘ Veld’

Ingredients

• 3 heaped tablespoons dried ‘piri piri’ chillies
• 1 tablespoon soft brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 teaspoon dried coriander seeds
• 1 teaspoon dried onion flakes
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon  chopped garlic / fresh
• ½ teaspoon cumin
• 2 tablespoon lemon juice / fresh
• 1 teaspoon chopped ginger / fresh
• ½ teaspoon paprika

Method

1. Place all dry ingredients in mortar and pestle  and grind roughly then briefly grind in wet ingredients with lemon juice
2. Place in container and refrigerate for a day before using, can be stored in refrigerator for two weeks.

Mama Africa, smile on me.

I was riding along and listening to an in-depth discussion with regards to the problems faced in Africa on the Radio. As I listened I was intrigued as to who these so called specialists were and from what point of view they were looking into The Dark Continent as one of them named my home continent. Not once during this discussion did any of them mention the West or so called civilised world’s part in Africa’s past and present problems.

I am always amused at home that so many people immediately have negative thoughts when the word Africa is mentioned. They immediately think of Hunger, Drought, Corruption, Poor Children and War.

For me Africa has many qualities and fond memories as this is the continent I grew up in.

Yes, it does have memories that are sad and unfortunate as I grew up in times that were most troublesome, but hopefully young generations of Africans will learn from the mistakes made by our forefathers and most importantly we need to be able to forgive and learn from the past.

But as a Chef, Africa and most importantly its food excites me as it is still so unknown to the western world.

South Africa now boasts 2 of the best restaurants in the world according to the S.Pellegrino listings, but I am more excited byEthiopia, which was civilised before the time of Christ, where the queen of Sheba once ruled.

The open aired market ofAddis Ababais the largest and most exciting in all of Africa for the exploring chef.

Here women make Injera, a unleavened bread, prepared today as it was two thousand years ago.

Kitfo, a Ethiopian ‘Steak Tartar’ was being served before the French even ate off tables, and I love Doro Wat, a chicken stew, Sega Wat a Ethiopian Lamb dish to mention a few.

Zanzibar, the Spice Islandand its M’Chuzi wa Nyama and beef Curry.

Mozambique, a food lovers paradise with Prawn Piri Piri, Clam and peanut stew and my all time favourite Frango a Cafrial a Barbecued Chicken dish.

Eritrean Kicha Fit Fit served with a scoop of fresh yoghurt and berbere.

North African  cuisine encompasses Morocco, Algeria, Libya Mauritania all so diverse with roots to cuisine that can be traced back over 2,500 years; Southern Africa, Home of Rainbow Cuisine, East Africa with its Arab and Portuguese influenced dishes and West Africa with its dishes of Yams, Coco yams, Cassava, Jollof Rice and Sweet Potato.

Africa is not for me the Dark Continent, but a continent that is so misunderstood by those who do not know it.Africa is where I have met the most caring and beautiful people, where I have enjoyed the most amazing meals, the most welcoming smiles and breathtaking landscapes.

It is so easy to find faults and have something negative to say. It is because most of what we hear and see in the press today is about negative reports, rather than the positive side of life. All our continents have challenges, no more or no less than Africa. Yes, war and drought have caused so much pain and suffering as have war and natural disasters in other parts of the world.

For me Africa is beautiful, exciting and welcoming.

“Nkosi Sikelel’ iAfrika”

Lord, bless Africa
May her horn rise high up
Hear Thou our prayers And bless us.

Descend, O Spirit,
Descend, O Holy Spirit.

Alison and I had a lovely evening with a glass of wine watching BBC and Raymond Blanc Cooking Christmas Dinner for friends.

What a pleasure to watch him, as well as the fact that I know this is how he actually behaves and works in real life.

His approach and respect for food and more importantly to chefs around him is absolutely wonderful to watch.

He is an ambassador for the Chef industry and I wish all Chefs who are in the public view, one of whom in particular comes to my mind immediately, would take note of how it is done.

I do ask myself if it is genetic or just part of our upbringing that makes one believe that belittling and swearing at aspiring youngsters who are easily influenced, is the way it should be done.

Not only does Raymond entertain, but he inspires and motivates.

It was wonderful to watch him bring both French and British influences to the table, and that is what Christmas is all about, coming together and being merry.

Alison and I felt very festive after watching his program, and may be tweaking our Christmas Lunch menu for the Family.

Well Done BBC.

A Inspiring Chef