Pomegranate at Le Calabash

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Cultivated for thousands of years, the pomegranate fruit has the wind in its sails in Europe for its rich antioxidant content in hundreds of colour vermilion seeds that blend perfectly for creamy preparations. At ‘le Calabash’ we are presently working on three recipes using Pomegranate or Grenadine Syrup to add into and share with our ‘Culinary Adventurers’ here in The Loire Valley France in 2015, including Alison’s Grenadine Macaron. 

Origin

Originally from Asia but cultivated in many tropical countries, the pomegranate also grows in the south of France. Appreciated in the past by the great travelers for its storage capacity, the pomegranate was best known for its refreshing virtues of juicy and pulpy flesh that imprisons small seeds called arils.

Use

The seeds are used fresh; you shouldn’t in any case try to cook them. Besides the fruity tartness they bring to creamy desserts, seeds, by their color and texture, enhance and give the dish added texture. As for the pomegranate juice, it can be used to make sorbets, coulis or as a basis for a marinade of pineapple or mango.

Culinary Ideas

If you like tangy and colour to brighten up your winter desserts, then bet on the pomegranate. It is delicious with an exotic fruit salad after a dinner party, or to give pep to a good rice pudding in sauce to accompany a sponge cake or sorbet with roasted pineapple. My favorite is a Panna Cotta or a vanilla Tiramisu generously topped with red beans in the center and on top..  Smooth and crisp at the same time, a great explosion in your mouth! Favor it raw because it loses much of its goodness when cooked, just remove the seeds. To do this, remove the top of the fruit, then the white cone, then cut into quarters and drop the seeds on a plate or, better, in water to use as they are. Be careful not to stain yourself!

Yuzu at Le Calabash

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Around the size of a small grapefruit, recognized by its slightly bumpy skin, Yuzu citrus is the trendiest ingredient of these last five years. It’s extremely fragrant zest inspires chefs, pastry chefs and even chocolatiers. At this time of the year we all steam ahead in creating and working on new dishes, using exciting and exotic ingredients as part of our week long ‘French Culinary Adventure’ with ‘le Calabash’ and 2015 will see us introduce our ‘Culinary Adventurers’ to the Yuzu.

Origin

Mistakenly called the Japanese lemon, Yuzu is the fruit of the tree eponymous that only produces this citrus fruit at its eighteenth year. Cultivated in Korea and Japan on the island of Shikoku, Japan’s fresh Yuzu is almost impossible to find in France for certain health reasons. Fortunately, it grows in our latitudes, and can be found in specialized boutiques.

Use

Rich seeds, not so juicy, Yuzu is often used for its zest, but nothing is lost in this citrus fruit. Cooked initially for savoury dishes, Yuzu made ​​a sensational debut in baking and chocolate making. The marriage with chocolate is even more compelling – the number of chocolate bars with dark chocolate and Yuzu is proof of this.

Culinary Ideas

Yuzu goes perfectly well with other citrus, such as lime or yellow lemon, tangerine and grapefruit. It strengthens their flavor by providing a touch of exoticism. It is very easy to integrate it into all sorts of preparations: such as the juice to flavour ganache, a sorbet or simply mix it with maple syrup or honey citrus to finish a fruit salad; purée to make fruit jellies or apricot-yuzu/grapefruit-yuzu combinations; grated zest in a sponge cake or a citrus cake filled with a yuzu curd; adds a natural aroma to flavour whipped cream; flavours for cocktails or for finishing a verrine. One can imagine a tart on a shortbread base, with a half-sphere of creamy yuzu and mini Swiss meringues to counteract the acidity and some lime zest grated on top.

Mama Africa

A  Blended Spice Recipe Handed Down to Sidney

By his Zulu Nanny ‘Edith’ 

This spice rub is ideal when moistened with lemon juice, lime juice, olive oil or a little white wine, massage into butter flied tiger prawn, spatchcock chicken, chicken wings, monkfish, tuna, scallops before grilling or barbecuing.

I love it with freshly pan braised large leaf spinach with lots of butter, as my nanny used to make it with ‘Maroggo’  a wild spinach found in Southern Africa which she used to go out and pick in the ‘ Veld’

Ingredients

  • 3 heaped tablespoons dried ‘piri piri’ chillies
  • 1 tablespoon soft brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon dried coriander seeds
  • 1 teaspoon dried onion flakes
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon  chopped garlic / fresh
  • ½ teaspoon cumin
  • 2 tablespoon lemon juice / fresh
  • 1 teaspoon chopped ginger / fresh
  • ½ teaspoon paprika

Method

  1. Place all dry ingredients in mortar and pestle  and grind roughly then briefly grind in wet ingredients with lemon juice
  2. Place in container and refrigerate for a day before using, can be stored in refrigerator for two weeks.

My Africa

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I was riding along and listening to an in-depth discussion with regards to the problems faced in Africa on the Radio. As I listened I was intrigued as to who these so called specialists were and from what point of view they were looking into The Dark Continent as one of them named my home continent. Not once during this discussion did any of them mention the West or so called civilised world’s part in Africa’s past and present problems.

I am always amused at home that so many people immediately have negative thoughts when the word Africa is mentioned. They immediately think of Hunger, Drought, Corruption, Poor Children and War.

For me Africa has many qualities and fond memories as this is the continent I grew up in.

Yes, it does have memories that are sad and unfortunate as I grew up in times that were most troublesome, but hopefully young generations of Africans will learn from the mistakes made by our forefathers and most importantly we need to be able to forgive and learn from the past.

But as a Chef, Africa and most importantly its food excites me as it is still so unknown to the western world.

South Africa now boasts 2 of the best restaurants in the world according to the S.Pellegrino listings, but I am more excited byEthiopia, which was civilised before the time of Christ, where the queen of Sheba once ruled.

The open aired market ofAddis Ababais the largest and most exciting in all of Africa for the exploring chef.

Here women make Injera, a unleavened bread, prepared today as it was two thousand years ago.

Kitfo, a Ethiopian ‘Steak Tartar’ was being served before the French even ate off tables, and I love Doro Wat, a chicken stew, Sega Wat a Ethiopian Lamb dish to mention a few.

Zanzibar, the Spice Islandand its M’Chuzi wa Nyama and beef Curry.

Mozambique, a food lovers paradise with Prawn Piri Piri, Clam and peanut stew and my all time favourite Frango a Cafrial a Barbecued Chicken dish.

Eritrean Kicha Fit Fit served with a scoop of fresh yoghurt and berbere.

North African  cuisine encompasses Morocco, Algeria, Libya Mauritania all so diverse with roots to cuisine that can be traced back over 2,500 years; Southern Africa, Home of Rainbow Cuisine, East Africa with its Arab and Portuguese influenced dishes and West Africa with its dishes of Yams, Coco yams, Cassava, Jollof Rice and Sweet Potato.

Africa is not for me the Dark Continent, but a continent that is so misunderstood by those who do not know it.Africa is where I have met the most caring and beautiful people, where I have enjoyed the most amazing meals, the most welcoming smiles and breathtaking landscapes.

It is so easy to find faults and have something negative to say. It is because most of what we hear and see in the press today is about negative reports, rather than the positive side of life. All our continents have challenges, no more or no less than Africa. Yes, war and drought have caused so much pain and suffering as have war and natural disasters in other parts of the world.

For me Africa is beautiful, exciting and welcoming.

“Nkosi Sikelel’ iAfrika”

Lord, bless Africa
May her horn rise high up
Hear Thou our prayers And bless us.

Descend, O Spirit,
Descend, O Holy Spirit.

Make it an adventure

I had a good friend ask me as how were they to find a good place to eat, if not through a guide when going on holiday. This is in response to what I wrote about food guides yesterday. My feeling is that if you are going on holiday and you want to enjoy and experience what the local culture and surroundings have to offer? Explore and make it an adventure, eat where the locals eat, go off the beaten track, and take a Walk on the Wild Side. I always have, and it has always been fun and educational. In most cases I have enjoyed exceptional cooking, decent portions, great and unpretentious service, ‘With a Smile !!  at a fraction of the price.

Take a Walk on the Wild Side at Le Calabash

His accent is familiar, distinctly South African, a definite tie to his roots on the plains of Zululand, and yet there is something unique about it. At moments you start to sense some interesting fusion that has taken place… British, maybe, through the influence of his wife and his time spent in culinary school and working professionally in the UK. Or French, possibly, from his time spent in France since relocating to the Loire Valley where he and his wife decided to raise their family and where, in 2006, they began offering cooking lessons at Le Calabash.

Sidney and Alison, herself a pastry chef, chose to settle down in the French countryside, and not a major tourist center, because they appreciated the quality of life, natural beauty and traditional lifestyle that it facilitated. Surrounded by river on one side and forest on the other, their small village and surrounding region is home to artisan cheese producers and winemakers who’s families have been practicing their craft for centuries. Yet traditional is precisely how Sidney would not describe the style of his cooking or the types of cooking classes that they offer.

Like his accent, Sidney’s culinary focus could be described as some sort of exotic fusion. In fact, the whole philosophy behind Le Calabash is “Balade Gormande sans Frontière”… or Cooking without boundaries. Sidney feels that this phrase encapsulates so much of what sets Le Calabash apart from other cooking schools in France. “You can go just about anywhere in France to learn how to prepare Tarte tatin” he says. Instead, it is their unique focus on combining traditional French cuisine with flavours from around the world that brings people to Le Calabash. Even some French restaurants have sent their chefs to Le Calabash to learn a few exotic tricks from India, Asia or the Middle East.

When asked if being outside of the major tourist zone of Paris was a problem for business, Sidney responded that his clientele was quite different from the average tourist who attends a half day cooking class in Paris. Those who visit the Loire Valley and spend one or more days following an intensive cooking course are those who are serious about cooking and who choose to make cooking a central component of their holiday. He enjoys teaching a clientele who bring real and diverse passion for cooking. Today, his clients tend to come from the US, UK, Holland, Belgium & Australia. Their ages typically range from 27 through 65. He’s been impressed with the number of young professionals who visit and attend his courses. In the future, he’s also considering adding mulit-day or multi-week courses that would appeal to those training to be professional chefs.

But unlike other cooking schools where the focus might often be on maximizing the number of students taught, Sidney and Alison are happy to focus on providing a highly personalized and attentive experience for each of their guests. “Were scaling our class size back from an average of 6 down to 4 per class” he tells me and explains that they felt they were not able to provide enough personalized attention and coaching to each of their students when there were 6 per class. Sidney and Alison teach every class themselves & they tend to form long lasting friendships with many of their students. At nearly 50%, the mix of their students who come from repeat or word-of-mouth business is extremely high. Sidney claims that a big chunk of his time online is simply spent corresponding with past clients who check-in with questions or general correspondence to keep in touch with the instructors whom they have befriended.

When asked for his thoughts about the future of the cooking tourism industry, Sidney has questions about what role France will play going forward. He sees the demand in Europe moving towards places like Spain that embrace innovation and can capture the imaginations and shifting tastes of a tourist base always looking for new exciting experiences. He also anticipates great things ahead for developing regions such as China, where chefs are beginning to emerge with distinctive styles and where there is a blank slate and amazing opportunity to offer tourists something completely new.

On the plus side, he hopes the developing world will open up a whole new market of potential students, for whom France will always have the cache of being one of the world’s great culinary capitals. In any case, Sidney isn’t obsessed with doubling or tripling his business. He says he is perfectly satisfied with the business he and his wife have built over the past 4 years. Because their cooking facilities on their own property, he feels fortunate not to worry about excessive overhead or paying rent in low season. He feels lucky to be doing something he loves, surrounded by his family in a beautiful part of the world. He genuinely enjoys cooking and interacting with people from around the world who come for training. At Le Calabash, the number one priority seems to be providing an exceptional (but un-traditional) experience to those serious about cooking and those lucky enough to spend a cooking holiday in this tranquil part of France.